David L. Vrablic
01-18-2008, 02:43 PM
a. I use a PVC pipe cutter to get a nice clean square cut on LMR 400-600-900.
b. I find it a good start to run a couple of strokes with a 1 inch double cut flat file to make sure the center conductor is flat across the whole cross sectional area of the center conductor. You will see why later.
c. Yes I remember most of the time to slip on the shrinkable tubing, and the crimp ring on the cable before I proceed as it can get messy afterward with DB cable goop once the braid is exposed.
d. I use the nifty "Overpriced" Times recommended prep tool for the first stage cut and remove the outer jacket and most of the poly exposing the proper amount of the center conductor. It removes all but a thin layer.
e. I have a small ceramic knife that seems to be better than a razor knife as it does not nick the copper or deposit dissimilar metals on the copper surface.
f. Once cleaned of all remaining insulation.
I reach in my cable kit and pull out a little palm sized AA battery powered screw driver.(You can always get AA batteries somewhere)
I cut the shank down on the wooden handled chamfer tool that Times recommends and I chucked it in this little guy permanently.
It only takes a couple of seconds to put a neat little nub on the end of the center.
Remember all that attention to a square end to start with? Well it pays off when the end fits perfectly in the chamfer tool and yields a rounded "nub that will slide into the internal collett of the EZ connectors with no problem.
g.Go ahead and flip the jacket removal tool over and make the second stage outer jacket removal cut and flare the braid out from the aluminum jacketed insulation about a 1/4 inch.
h. Another little trick at this step..
Get a hold of a pair of those toe nail cutters that are like the fingernail clippers we all use. It is best if they have a concave blade and are about a half inch wide.
Don't get crazy but snip the harsh aluminum edge about a 1/16th inch all around. It yields a little chamfer that doesn't get hung up when you try to seat the connector in place.
This also eliminates those annoying "Frog Hairs" that sometimes wander awfully close to the center conductor.
I follow the Times video directions for everything else so I won't go into a detailed diatribe on what most everyone knows and does every day.
I just thought you might get a kick out of a couple of bits that work for me.
Oh yes, I know they are expensive but I am developing a fondness to the solder pin N/ angle connectors. Great for the new duplex dish feeds and the PAC slotted waveguide sectors that have the connector right out from the front. At least you know it isn't shorted when you screw the little cover on.
I hope this help someone! If you aren't having any problems FIGITABOUTIT and continue with what you know works.;)
b. I find it a good start to run a couple of strokes with a 1 inch double cut flat file to make sure the center conductor is flat across the whole cross sectional area of the center conductor. You will see why later.
c. Yes I remember most of the time to slip on the shrinkable tubing, and the crimp ring on the cable before I proceed as it can get messy afterward with DB cable goop once the braid is exposed.
d. I use the nifty "Overpriced" Times recommended prep tool for the first stage cut and remove the outer jacket and most of the poly exposing the proper amount of the center conductor. It removes all but a thin layer.
e. I have a small ceramic knife that seems to be better than a razor knife as it does not nick the copper or deposit dissimilar metals on the copper surface.
f. Once cleaned of all remaining insulation.
I reach in my cable kit and pull out a little palm sized AA battery powered screw driver.(You can always get AA batteries somewhere)
I cut the shank down on the wooden handled chamfer tool that Times recommends and I chucked it in this little guy permanently.
It only takes a couple of seconds to put a neat little nub on the end of the center.
Remember all that attention to a square end to start with? Well it pays off when the end fits perfectly in the chamfer tool and yields a rounded "nub that will slide into the internal collett of the EZ connectors with no problem.
g.Go ahead and flip the jacket removal tool over and make the second stage outer jacket removal cut and flare the braid out from the aluminum jacketed insulation about a 1/4 inch.
h. Another little trick at this step..
Get a hold of a pair of those toe nail cutters that are like the fingernail clippers we all use. It is best if they have a concave blade and are about a half inch wide.
Don't get crazy but snip the harsh aluminum edge about a 1/16th inch all around. It yields a little chamfer that doesn't get hung up when you try to seat the connector in place.
This also eliminates those annoying "Frog Hairs" that sometimes wander awfully close to the center conductor.
I follow the Times video directions for everything else so I won't go into a detailed diatribe on what most everyone knows and does every day.
I just thought you might get a kick out of a couple of bits that work for me.
Oh yes, I know they are expensive but I am developing a fondness to the solder pin N/ angle connectors. Great for the new duplex dish feeds and the PAC slotted waveguide sectors that have the connector right out from the front. At least you know it isn't shorted when you screw the little cover on.
I hope this help someone! If you aren't having any problems FIGITABOUTIT and continue with what you know works.;)